Cheryl Pavlik
Tom Pavlik

Trip Overview: We visited Hidden Valley Inn for four days in the Mountain Pine region (west and a little south of Belize City) and then drove to Chan Chich Lodge (west and north of Belize City) where we also stayed for four days. We decided to rent a car to give us flexibility at each location as well the ability to see part of the country. We also wanted to visit Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary which would not have been possible without our own vehicle. While it was expensive to rent a car ($750 U.S. for 8 days) it wasn’t much more than the airfare and transfers to the two lodges. We spent about $100 U.S. on gas.

We purposefully chose these two locations mostly due to the difference in habitats. Hidden Valley Inn is located at a higher elevation in pine savannah. Chan Chich’s primary habitat is broad leaf jungle.

The only issue we had with Hidden Valley Inn is that you are on your own for birding. There is a resident bird guide but the problem is that he is never available. They advertise morning bird walks for $10 per person, per hour. However, they also have canoeing, horseback riding and tubing trips that are all day for around $100 per person. The bird guide helps with those trips and since they make more money on those, he is rarely available for bird guiding.

Friday - January 26
We left Detroit, connected through Houston and arrived in Belize City at 4:30pm local time without incident. We were greeted with rain but it didn’t bother us much since we were driving to Hidden Valley Inn and didn’t plan on doing anything else that day.

The drive to Hidden Valley Inn (HVI) took about 2 hours. The directions they gave us were good and we had no problem finding the lodge. We traveled the Western Highway which is the equivalent of a nice two lane paved road. Along the way we saw only a few birds including Great Egrets and Ringed Kingfishers near the pools of water. We only traveled about an hour before it started getting dark so the focus was now on the directions and getting to HVI.

We checked into our very comfortable cabana and had a short orientation. Fortunately, we were in time for dinner and enjoyed an excellent meal along with a Beliken – the beer of Belize.

Saturday - January 27
It started getting light shortly after 6:00am. It was the first call of an unknown bird that got me out of bed. While Cheryl was getting around I quickly got to the feeders. Staff from the lodge put banana bread out each morning which draws a nice mix of birds. Acorn Woodpecker was the first bird I noticed followed quickly by a mob of beautiful Yellow-backed Orioles. Hepatic Tanagers were regulars at the feeders as well as Green Jays. Yes – we were obviously in the tropics.

I wandered a bit further but wanted to check on Cheryl before breakfast. The only other addition was a pair of Melodious Blackbirds which would turn out to be quite common.

Breakfast was every bit as good as the previous night’s dinner. There was a good selection and the food was delicious. After breakfast we decided the Lake Trail sounded like a good place to start. We walked a dirt road for a couple hundred yards then ducked onto the trail. The habitat was the same as described earlier – primarily pine savannah. This means small pockets of pines but also more shrub-like plants than trees. Rufous-capped Warbler was a nice sighting and a Gray Catbird seemed out of place compared to my back yard at home though they turned out to be quite common. The trail went down along a creek and the habitat changed to more typical of broad leaf jungle. The trail was completely enveloped by trees. After a ½ mile or so the trail opened up into something resembling a field. We saw our first ‘seed’ birds including White-collared Seedeater and Black-headed Siskin.

We continued down the path and were working our way to the lake. We heard what was obviously a raptor and tracked down the source – Laughing Falcon. Three of these gorgeous birds were calling to each other in the area and we got to watch them for some time.

We walked along the lake which turned out to be uneventful except for the black flies. We were warned they were bad and lathered ourselves up pretty well with the provided Skin-so-Soft but it did little to repel these aggressive bugs.

After lunch we drove to King Vulture Falls and walk around that area. Not surprisingly we saw several King Vultures throughout this awesome gorge. Some were soaring and some were just white dots in distant trees.

On the drive back we stopped at a few spots where the activity picked up. Warblers were scattered throughout the area in small but steady numbers. Before it was over we found Grace’s (completely restricted to pines as they typically are), Yellow-rumped, Black-throated Green, and Worm-eating Warbler.

We arrived back at the inn with about an hour before dinner and did a short trail behind the lodge. By late afternoon activity picked up and we added Lineated Woodpecker, Golden-olive Woodpecker and Yellow-bellied Sapsucker as well as Tropical Kingbird, Ivory-billed Woodcreeper and a few others.

Typical habitat around Hidden Valley Inn

Sunday January 28
We awoke to another day of shaky weather. The day would consist of on and off drizzle with occasional rain. Not bad for birding. After breakfast we decided to walk the trail to Devil’s Falls. This was another trail that was closer to jungle walking rather than the typical habitat of the area. The trail was narrow and the foliage dense so more birds were heard than seen.

After some time a hummingbird buzzed us and perched close enough to see identifying marks. The clincher was the tail pattern – Stripe-tailed Hummingbird. There were only a few more identifiable birds. Due to the trail it was important to watch every step. However, we managed to scare up a Collard Trogan, Hooded Warbler, White-breasted Wood Wren and Northern Barred Woodcreeper before making it to the falls. The falls were beautiful and we enjoyed wading in the pool and taking pictures before heading back for lunch.

After lunch we decided to head for 1000 Foot Falls located in the northeast part of the property. Orange-breasted Falcon was the target bird. There is a gentleman that lives by there and he charges a dollar to come onto his property. Again I was happy we had a rental car which made the 10 mile round trip much easier. The lodge would also arrange the trip if you did not have your own car but there is a fee and now you’re on a schedule.

We drove slowly on the way out but no new birds. Just before getting to the viewing area we picked out a Golden-hooded Tanager. Tanagers are relatively sparse compared to the rest of Central and South America so this was nice to see. We parked and were greeted by the owner. It was obvious we were birders and he started looking for the Orange-breasted Falcon that issometimes present near the falls. After a few minutes he found the falcon in one of it’s favorite perches.

We wandered the area for a while longer but there was nothing much in the way of birds. We took our time getting back to the main lodge. Again it was quiet but we managed Brown Jay, Gray-chested Dove and Dusky-capped Flycatcher. Only 14 trip birds for the day but a great day nonetheless.

Brown Jay – Hidden Valley Inn

Monday January 29
After another delicious breakfast we walked the service road which tuned out to be about 6 miles. We intended to do the Coffee Grove Trail but too much of it was under water. One of the workers indicated he saw a Squirrel Cuckoo in the area the day before. This is an uncommon bird for this habitat. I assume we saw the same one this morning. Not a life bird but they are cool.

The road was easy to walk and fairly dry. It offered enough activity to keep it interesting. We were enjoying the activity of a family of Lineated Woodpeckers when we heard the quick patter of feet. The sound was from around a bend in the road not 50 feet away – obviously coming towards us. Anything was possible and we both froze. A few seconds later a pair of Gray Fox came around the corner and bolted into the underbrush once they saw us.

Along the way we encountered a variety of birds and managed to add several to our trip list before we made it back to the lodge. Warblers were in decent variety again including Chestnut-sided, Golden-crowned, Rufous-capped and Common Yellow-throat. Yellow-billed Cacique and Streak-headed Woodcreepers were also new additions.

By late afternoon the sun came out for a brief time and allowed for some photo opportunities.

Yellow-tailed Oriole – Hidden Valley Inn

Tuesday January 30
This would be the long drive to Chan Chich. As the Harpy Eagle flies, the distance between HVI and Chan Chich is not that far – maybe 30 miles north. However, there is no appropriate road so you must head back towards Belize City (fortunately you do not have to drive through the city) and take the northern highway near Burrel Boom. We didn’t mind because we wanted to spend some time at Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary which was on the way.

After breakfast we started the drive and stopped at a few locations maybe 10 miles out from the lodge. Different habitat – different birds. Just pulling off the road where there was activity seemed to be the best approach. We couldn’t linger due the drive ahead of us but we managed Common Black Hawk, N. Rough-winged Swallow, Blue Bunting, Blue Grosbeak, Red-winged Blackbird and Eastern Meadowlark.

After getting on the Northern Highway the entrance to Crooked Tree was only 30 km or so. The highway is in good shape and the traffic was minimal. The 3 mile drive to the sanctuary from the main highway was productive since we were driving along the large lagoon that surrounds the island. Limpkins were popular as well as egrets and herons.

We arrived at the visitor center of Crooked Tree shortly after 11am. We paid the $8 Belize ($4 US) and received a short orientation. There are only a couple of decent birding spots on the island. Surprisingly, much us the area is residential.

The gentleman at the visitor center recommended the area to the west and gave us a map. He was right. This was by far the best area. The habitat included some small fields and scattered trees but the main attraction was a small shallow lake that attracted a variety of birds. Solitary, Spotted and Pectoral Sandpipers were found as well as all the expected wading birds like Great Blue, Little Blue, Green and Tricolored Heron. We had four species of ducks, several Snail Kites, Mangrove Swallow, Northern Jacana and more. It turned out to be a major list builder but nothing out of the ordinary until…..

I saw a medium sized bird fly through my binocular view, caught up with it and followed it to the left side of the lake. I knew instantly it was a Lapwing but I don’t remember seeing it in the field guide. Upon further review of the guide, I still could not find it. I relocated the bird and again I was convinced it was a Lapwing. I studied it a bit further before finally heading out. We came across a bird guide who was showing a group around. I hesitate to bother people under these circumstances but wanted to know if he knew anything of a Lapwing. He assured me that there is indeed a Southern Lapwing that had been frequenting the lake and no, it is not in the field guide. Cool!

We added 36 trip birds at Crooked Tree in about 2 hours. An enjoyable stop.

Northern Jacana – Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary

Most of the drive to Chan Chich was uneventful until we got closer to the lodge. We kept the pace up hoping to get there before dark. We drove for a few hours, going through the main town of Orange Walk and several villages. Finally we got to the sign that indicated Chan Chich lodge was 36 miles. It was all dirt road with a few areas of deep ruts due to the recent rains. Glad we had a 4 wheel drive. A couple miles before the lodge we started seeing Ocellated Turkeys along the road (I’m still not sure if this is one of the most beautiful or most ugly birds I’ve ever seen). Just before the first bridge we saw our first pair of Great Currasow. The currasow is a bizarre looking bird with its curly “hair”.

Finally we pulled into Chan Chich Lodge just before dusk. Incredible place! It’s unbelievable what someone created in the middle of nowhere. Fortunately, we were in time for dinner. I went with the Surf and Turf – filet mignon and broiled lobster tail. We were really roughing it.

Wednesday, January 31
No need for an alarm clock. The Montezuma Oropendula colony began their daily ruckus at dawn. I was up and walking the grounds shortly after 6am. Fortunately, we would not see rain again this trip. On the flip side it was hot and muggy.

A Slaty-tailed Trogan was just outside our cabana. Nice way to start the day. House Wren, Yellow-bellied Flycatcher, Olive-backed Euphonia and Red-legged Honeycreeper were also found on my short walk.

Slaty-tailed Trogan – Chan Chich Lodge

Guides are provided as part of our all inclusive package but we decided to do our first trail on our own after breakfast. We picked up some of the supplied rubber boots due to the muddy trails and headed out. Jungle birding does not generally provide an extensive list and that would be the case this morning. Regardless, we found some nice birds. White-whiskered Puffbird was the first new one but we also added Plain Xenops, Ruddy Woodcreeper, Violacious Trogan, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird and Black-throated Shrike-Tanager.

After lunch we walked the entrance road which we would do at least once a day. It was fairly productive even in the afternoon heat. A Bat Falcon at the top of a tree through the canopy was a nice sighting. We would see him regularly over the next few days. Closer to the bridge (about ½ mile from the lodge) Cheryl caught a glimpse of some "red-headed bird". Fortunately, it landed close and we got great looks at a male Red-capped Manakin. In the same location a Scaly-breasted Hummingbird constantly chipped from a favorite perch. On the walk back activity came in small groups of birds. One such group held Lesser Greenlet, Dot-winged Antwren, Gray-headed Tanager and Wood Thrush.

That evening we did a night trip which turned out to include a bulk of the people staying there. About a dozen of us piled into the back of a truck that was open and built specifically for this type of thing. In spite of the constant chattering we saw a few nice things. The guide knew of a reliable spot for Northern Potoo and we were able to see it from a distance. He was careful not to shine the light directly on the bird and indicated we would only get a few chances. I appreciated the sighting and respect for the bird. We also had a couple of Yellow-crowned Night-Heron in a wet area near the airstrip at Gallon Jug. I was hoping for some nightjars but there were none to be seen.

Ocellated Turkey - Chan Chich Lodge

Thursday, February 1
More of the same jungle style birding. This time we took advantage of a guide (Rubin) that would lead us on several other field trips before we left. Our morning walk included another birding couple from Boston and Rubin led us to some nice sightings. The nice thing about these guides is they are good about tracking down birds rather than just letting it go with a call. Such was the case with a Stub-tailed Spadebill. This bird is easily heard but difficult to see at times. Rubin took us off trail and eventually we got great looks at this bird. A Kentucky Warbler was nearby as well. Our morning walk included several birds we had already seen but also included a few new ones such as Sepia-capped Flycatcher, Yucatan Flycatcher and Yellow-winged Tanager.

After lunch we did another walk down the main road to the bridge and back. Near the bridge but still in the woods we heard a strange snapping sound. Of course when we got close the sound stopped. We walked away and the sound started again. We continued this for a while but eventually found the origin – a White-collard Manakin. We were told later it makes this sound with it’s wings.

Friday, February 2
This would be our last full day in Belize. We made the most of it by having Rubin take us on a morning walk as well as a late afternoon adventure. We took a different trail in the morning but it was still jungle birding. We did manage a few different species including Double-toothed Kite, White-bellied Emerald (Hummingbird), Pale-billed Woodpecker, White-eyed and Yellow-throated Vireos, a pair of Rufous-tailed Jacamars and two Royal Flycatchers. Just before the end of our hike Rubin heard a call from the sky that he recognized. The bird came closer and we had respectable looks at an Ornate Hawk-Eagle.

Our late afternoon journey started at about 3pm. Since we had a vehicle Rubin took us to a part of Chan Chich a few miles away. We stopped by a couple of cocoa trees. Rubin cracked one open and we enjoyed the sweet taste around the seeds. We continued on and eventually came to the end of the road. The area was open with some trees but not the jungle habitat we had been birding the last couple of days. Consequently, we added several different birds including White-crowned Parrot, Green-backed Sparrow, Black-cowled Oriole and American Kestrel. We also saw two other raptors soaring – Snail Kite and Short-tailed Hawk.

Rubin and I enjoying cocoa seeds

The following morning we had a long drive back to Belize City to return the car and head home.