The trip from Detroit Metro airport to Houston then on to Quito was uneventful. Representatives from La Selva greeted us at the airport about 10:30pm and took us to the hotel Friday evening. The following morning they picked us up about 8:00am and we went back to the airport for our quick flight to Coca. The weather was nice and we got great views of the Andes Mountains as we continued down the eastern slope.

We arrived at the small town of Coca about 10:00am where we were greeted by the main guide – Effy. We took a short truck ride to the river where our gear was loaded and we began the 2.5 hour journey down the Rio Napo (Napo River).

There were fewer birds than expected along the river but we managed to start ticking off lifers like Yellow-headed Vulture, Yellow-billed Tern and a couple Swallows. Once we arrived at our drop off point we had about a 20 minute walk. I was amazed just how thick the jungle was. We came to Garzacocha Lake where our guides canoed us across to the Lodge.

  La Selva Lodge

We went through a quick orientation with Effy and got settled in our cabanas. As we walked along the wood boardwalk we couldn’t help but notice a colony of Yellow-rumped Caciques making a racket throughout the lodge grounds.

To say these are luxury lodges is stretching it a bit. But then again, everything is relative. Considering where we were, I was happy to have a light in the bathroom with flush toilets and a semi-warm shower.

We were introduced to our guide for the week – Olgar ("Ol-Har") – and had our first jungle walk at 4:00pm. There were certainly plenty of birds calling but the forest canopy was 80-100 feet up. Talk about a bad case of "warbler-neck"! The birds were not exactly dripping off the trees but we managed to find some cool ones like White-eared Jacamar, Violaceous Jay and some other forest dwellers.

We were back by 6:00pm and we cleaned up and headed for our first dinner. It was just getting dusk. In the lounge we had our beverage of choice when we noticed a flock of Sand-colored Nighthawks over the lake.

Dinner was excellent as were all meals. As we were finishing dessert we heard a Ferruginous-Pygmy Owl just outside. We went to take a look but he quit calling as soon as we got outside. We would get excellent views later in the week.

At the end of day one I had 27 species and all but 6 were life birds.

As with most mornings we were up at 6:00am in time for a 6:30am breakfast. Again, the food was excellent. By 7:15am we were headed to the Observation Tower that was about a 15 minute walk from the lodge. The tower is close to 100 feet high and gets you to canopy level. We got spoiled in a big hurry since the birds were plentiful and now easy to see. A family of Double-Toothed Kites had taken up residence nearby and had a fledgling in the area. The family didn’t seem to mind as they were within 20 feet of the tower at most times. We had our first exposure to some of the Tanagers in the area including Opal-crowned, Turquoise, Palm and Summer. We also added Green and Purple Honeycreepers, various Parrots, Toucans, Flycatchers, Hummingbirds and a few more Raptors.

  White-fronted Nunbird

The 4:00pm adventure was a canoe ride around the lake. It was warm without a lot of activity. However, we did add Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Black Caracara and a few more Parrots. As we were approaching the dock there was a pair of Red-Capped Cardinals by the shore. I added 54 more birds of which 43 were life birds.

Our morning trip was about a mile walk to Mandicocha Lake. This is about a 50 acre lake but also has a river that you can canoe up. The lake is surrounded by a variety of vegetation and also has water plants for Gallinules. Our guide indicated that Rails were rarely seen simply because there are few in the area. The canoe trip around the lake added several birds. One I liked was the Black-capped Donacobious. An altogether different bird but reminded me a little like an Eastern Towhee. Along the water plants we added Purple and Azure Gallinules. Also, a Lesser Kiskadee was among the several Greater Kiskadees. As we headed up the river we saw a couple Kingfishers including Ringed, Amazon, Green and Green-and-Rufous. Our guide managed to call in a Collared Trogan after much effort.

Our afternoon hike was our standard hike through the jungle on a different path. The birding is difficult with all the foliage and the height of the canopy. However, this is a good place to add Antbirds. Consequently, we added five more including Plain-throated Antwren, Black-faced, Silvered and Plumbious Antbird, and Black-faced Antthrush. We also got our first look at Wire-tailed Manakin – a small bright red and yellow bird that stands out in the dark-green foliage.

After dinner we did our only night journey. This was another canoe ride around the lake with Owls being our goal. We saw a couple caiman (small, alligator like critters) and several bats including the large Fishing Bat. We also got good looks at Tropical-Screech Owl and Tawny-bellied Owl. Crested Owl would remain on the "heard-only" list.

This morning we decided to get up a little earlier. They had breakfast for us at 6:00am. Olgar had a pair of Tropical Screech-Owls in a tree near the main lodge. Ya just can’t see too many Owls. After a quick breakfast we took a trip back over the Napo River to a known Parrot hangout. There is a natural mineral that several parrots go to so they can get salt and clay into their system. This apparently offsets some of the poison they ingest when eating various fruit. We saw some of the parrots earlier in the week but the numbers (and noise) here was far greater. There were perhaps 500 parrots including Blue-headed, Orange-winged, and Yellow-crowned Parrots as well as Cobalt-winged and Dusky-headed Parakeets. I also managed to get my first ant bite which hurt like crazy.

We got back in the boat and wandered down the river a mile or so to a series of paths on the same side of the river. Again, we ticked-off a few new birds. The one I really liked was the Screaming Piha – one of the birds that are often heard but seldom seen. We finally tracked one down. From the sound you might think there are two birds there. First, it makes a couple of soft dove-like ‘coos’ then lets out a piercing two note scream.

The rain came so we headed back to the lodge for lunch. After lunch we made a quick trip back to the observation tower in between rain showers and were surprised to find it a little busy considering it was the middle of the day. We added a Swallow Tanager, Lettered Aracari and Squirrel Cuckoo.

The rain continued on and off for the rest of the afternoon so our birding time was limited. After it looked like the threat was over we did another quick hike through the jungle. We added only a few birds but the Scale-breasted Woodpecker was another nice find.

 Greater Ani

We decided we would go back to the observation tower in the morning. There was another small group of people there so it got a little crowded with the dozen or so of us. As before there was a great deal of activity early but started to get quiet even by 8:30am – similar to SE Arizona birding in August. During the flurry of activity we were able to add several more tanager-like birds including both Orange-bellied and White-lored Euphonias, Blue Dacnis, Yellow-bellied Dacnis, and Paradise, Green-and-Gold, Yellow-bellied, Silver-beaked and my favorite – Flame-crested Tanager.

We stayed in the tower for a while but didn’t add too much more. We headed back for lunch a little early and made sure our lists were updated. After lunch we hung out on the deck of the main lounge. Since this was one of the few times it was sunny I decided to take a couple pictures.

  Yellow-bellied Dacnis

Just when we thought we would have a nice afternoon another rain shower came through and cut into our afternoon trip. We did get out but only for a little while. Since we only had a little time we decided to focus on finding a Zigzag Heron. There was a known spot on the opposite side of the lake. It wasn’t long after we got there that we heard the call. In spite of the efforts of Olgar, the trip yielded a "heard only".

This was the day it rained – a lot!! It rained all morning so we took the time to make sure our lists were updated and we hung out around the lodge to see if we could add anything from the cover provided there. Needless to say there was little activity. However, there was a Bare-necked Fruitcrow at the top a dead snag across the cove that we got good looks at. A little while later we noticed a nightjar sleeping in a tree nearby. It turned out to be a Lesser Nighhawk – rare for the eastern side of the mountains a life bird for our guide.

The rain started again and continued most of the afternoon. About 4:30 there we signs of clearing weather so we decided to brave it and head out to a couple of the islands in the river looking primarily for Spinetails. We went back across the lake and walked the same boardwalk we came in on. About 100 yards up the boardwalk Olgar pointed out an Orange-crested Manakin. Around La Selva is the only known location in the world for this specie.

We could walk out onto the first island so it was really more of a peninsula. The sun was coming out so it was very muggy. This area was covered in tall grasses but there were some paths we could walk along. The area is only about 200 yards by 100 yards. We were able to add one Spintail – Speckled Spinetail. However, the new habitat provided several additional life birds including Black-billed Thrush, Blue-black Grassquit, Chestnut-bellied Seedeater and Oriole Blackbird. We got to a clearing where we could see the sandy shoreline and where we added Collared Plover. As we scanned the rest of the shoreline my wife noticed a Lesser Yellowlegs – not thinking much of it due to its frequency in Michigan. However, this turned out to be another rare bird this far inland.

We took a boat down river for about 20 minutes and got out at another island known for Amazonian Umbrellabirds. After beaching the boat we walked up the sandy beach to where we could get through the vegetation and into the core of the island. It reminded me of the Lost World.

It wasn’t too long before we heard the first Umbrellabird. Over the next 45 minutes we tracked down the bird only getting half-second glimpses in the thick canopy. Since it was getting dark we had no choice but to get back to the boat. As luck would have it, we were just about ready to climb in when Olgar got so excited he couldn’t say what he wanted to say in English so it all came out in Spanish. However, pointing fingers are the same in all languages and the bird we struggled so hard to get a good look at was now flying across the river in clear view.

We headed back to the lodge. We had a ways to go and it was already getting dark. By the time we hit shore and started the walk back to Lake Garzacocha it was dark but the Tropical Screech-Owls were out. I think I heard our guide laugh as I did a horrible job trying to mimic their calls.

We made it to the lake and started our canoe ride when our guide suddenly stopped the canoe about 100 feet after we started. He had a high-beam flashlight and turned it on to reveal a Zigzag Heron. How he knew it was there is beyond me but I guess that is why he is the guide.

  Yellow-crested Woodpecker

This was our last full day. We had covered most trails by now so we decided to go back to the old reliable Observation Tower for our last morning. Again the activity was good but with many of the same species we had earlier in the week. However, you just don’t get tired of Spangled Cotingas and the various Parrots and Toucans. Yellow-billed Nunbird and Straight-billed Woodcreeper were the only additions from the tower.

From there we headed for our second trip to Lake Mandicocha. The water level was up considerably from all the rain. We managed to add American Pygmy Kingfisher, White-chinned Jacamar and another rarity – Agami Heron.

Our last jungle journey was that afternoon at 4:00pm again. Sounds filled the jungle and I tried to concentrate on identification by sounds and didn’t do too bad. However, like trying to learn a foreign language, if you don’t hear it much you’ll lose it. By now, I probably could only identify a few by sound (like Screaming Piha). Our last hike yielded three more life birds – White-flanked Antwren, Yellow-crowned Elaenia and Gray-capped Flycatcher.

This was an early morning due to us having to get back to Coca for our flight to Quito. We were up at 5:00am having a quick cup of coffee. Still dark, we canoed across the lake listening to a Spectacled Owl.

The three hour boat ride back up the Napo River was quiet since most people were still half asleep. Our last bird was added just as we were arriving at the dock near Coca. A couple of Gray-breasted Martins were sitting under the bridge.

Summary: The trip was fantastic. The guides were extremely knowledgable, not just with the birds but with all the animals. The food was excellent and the service of all employees was top-notch. If I were to do it over I would probably spend fewer days at La Selva and work in a trip to either The Galapagos or to one of the cloud forests. Regardless, I have no regrets.

Species seen: 197 of which 166 were life birds

The list: (H = Heard Only)
Undulated Tinamou (H) 1/23/2002
Anhinga 1/19/2002
Striated Heron 1/21/2002
Zigzag Heron 1/23/2002
Snowy Egret 1/22/2002
Agami Heron 1/25/2002
Black-crowned Night-Heron 1/20/2002
Cattle Egret 1/20/2002
Cocoi Heron 1/19/2002
Great Egret 1/19/2002
Rufescent Tiger Heron 1/20/2002
Great Yellow-headed Vulture 1/19/2002
Black Vulture 1/19/2002
Osprey 1/20/2002
Swallow-tailed Kite 1/19/2002
Plumbeous Kite 1/25/2002
Double-toothed Kite 1/20/2002
Great Black-Hawk 1/24/2002
Slate-Colored Hawk 1/20/2002
Roadside Hawk 1/20/2002
Lined Forest-Falcon 1/23/2002
Crane Hawk 1/20/2002
Black Caracara 1/20/2002
Yellow-headed Caracara 1/19/2002
Spix's Guan 1/25/2002
Speckled Chachalaca 1/22/2002
Marbled Wood-Quail 1/22/2002
Sunbittern 1/21/2002
Purple Gallinule 1/21/2002
Azure Gallinule 1/21/2002
Pied Plover 1/24/2002
Collared Plover 1/24/2002
Spotted Sandpiper 1/22/2002
Lesser Yellowlegs 1/24/2002
Yellow-billed Tern 1/19/2002
Plumbeous Pigeon 1/20/2002
Ruddy Pigeon 1/21/2002
Pale-vented Pigeon 1/21/2002
Eared Dove 1/19/2002
Chestnut-fronted Macaw 1/20/2002
Red-bellied Macaw 1/20/2002
Cobalt-winged Parakeet 1/20/2002
Black-headed Parrot 1/20/2002
Dusky-headed Parakeet 1/22/2002
Blue-headed Parrot 1/20/2002
Orange-winged Amazon 1/20/2002
Yellow-crowned Amazon 1/22/2002
Mealy Amazon 1/20/2002
Squirrel Cuckoo 1/22/2002
Greater Ani 1/19/2002
Smooth-billed Ani 1/21/2002
Hoatzin 1/20/2002
Tropical Screech-Owl 1/21/2002
Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl 1/21/2002
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl 1/19/2002
Crested Owl (H) 1/21/2002
Spectacled Owl (H) 1/26/2002
Lesser Nighthawk 1/24/2002
Sand-colored Nighthawk 1/19/2002
Pauraque 1/20/2002
Short-tailed Swift 1/19/2002
Neotropical Swift 1/20/2002
Rufous-breasted Hermit 1/21/2002
White-necked Jacobin 1/20/2002
Fork-tailed Woodnymph 1/20/2002
Blue-tailed Emerald 1/23/2002
Black-tailed Trainbearer 1/19/2002
Amazonian White-tailed Trogan 1/20/2002
Collared Trogan 1/21/2002
Crimson-crested Woodpecker 1/20/2002
Ringed Kingfisher 1/21/2002
Amazon Kingfisher 1/21/2002
Green Kingfisher 1/21/2002
Green-and-Rufous Kingfisher 1/21/2002
American Pygmy Kingfisher 1/25/2002
Blue-crowned Motmot 1/21/2002
Violaceous Jay 1/19/2002
White-eared Jacamar 1/19/2002
White-chinned Jacamar 1/25/2002
Purplish Jacamar 1/21/2002
Gilded Barbet 1/20/2002
Lemon-throated Barbet 1/23/2002
White-necked Puffbird 1/25/2002
Brown Nunlet 1/23/2002
Black-fronted Nunbird 1/22/2002
White-fronted Nunbird 1/22/2002
Yellow-billed Nunbird 1/25/2002
Swallow-winged Puffbird 1/19/2002
Golden-collared Toucanet 1/20/2002
Many-banded Acacari 1/21/2002
Ivory-billed Aracari 1/23/2002
Lettered Aracari 1/22/2002
White-throated Toucan 1/20/2002
Channel-billed Toucan 1/20/2002
Chestnut Woodpecker 1/21/2002
Scale-breasted Woodpecker 1/22/2002
Cream-colored Woodpecker 1/23/2002
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker 1/20/2002
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper 1/19/2002
Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper 1/23/2002
Straight-billed Woodcreeper 1/25/2002
Buff-throated Woodcreeper 1/20/2002
Striped Woodcreeper 1/23/2002
Speckled Spinetail 1/24/2002
Orange-fronted Plushcrown 1/22/2002
Plain Xenops 1/20/2002
Rufous-tailed Foliage Gleaner 1/20/2002
Buff-throated Foliage-Gleaner 1/19/2002
Plain-winged Antshrike 1/19/2002
Gray Antwren 1/22/2002
White-flanked Antwren 1/25/2002
Plain-throated Antwren 1/21/2002
Short-billed Antwren 1/23/2002
Warbling Antbird 1/22/2002
Black-faced Antbird 1/21/2002
Silvered Antbird 1/21/2002
Plumbeous Antbird 1/21/2002
White-shouldered Antbird 1/22/2002
Sooty Antbird 1/20/2002
Dot-backed Antbird 1/20/2002
Black-faced Antthrush 1/21/2002
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet 1/22/2002
Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet 1/23/2002
White-lored Tyrannulet 1/20/2002
Slender-footed Tyrannulet 1/23/2002
Yellow-crowned Elaenia 1/25/2002
Mottle-backed Elaenia 1/24/2002
Yellow-browed Tody Flycatcher 1/23/2002
Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher 1/20/2002
Drab Water-Tyrant 1/22/2002
Bright-rumped Attila 1/20/2002
Cinnamon Attila 1/23/2002
Grayish Mourner 1/20/2002
Screaming Piha 1/22/2002
Dusky-capped Flycatcher 1/23/2002
Tropical Kingbird 1/21/2002
Piratic Flycatcher 1/21/2002
Great Kiskadee 1/20/2002
Lesser Kiskadee 1/21/2002
Social Flycatcher 1/20/2002
Gray-capped Flycatcher 1/25/2002
Black-capped Becard 1/23/2002
Pink-throated Becard 1/22/2002
Black-tailed Tityra 1/20/2002
Black-crowned Tityra 1/22/2002
Spangled Cotinga 1/23/2002
White-browed Purpletuft 1/20/2002
Amazonian Umbrellabird 1/24/2002
Bare-necked Fruitcrow 1/23/2002
Blue-crowned Manakin 1/19/2002
Wire-tailed Manakin 1/21/2002
Orange-crested Manakin 1/24/2002
Wing-barred Piprites 1/20/2002
Varzea Schiffornis 1/21/2002
Gray-breasted Martin 1/26/2002
White-winged Swallow 1/19/2002
White-banded Swallow 1/19/2002
Thrush-like Wren 1/19/2002
Coraya Wren 1/22/2002
White-breasted Wood-Wren 1/22/2002
Southern Nightingale Wren 1/23/2002
Black-capped Donacobius 1/21/2002
Red-eyed Vireo 1/20/2002
Yellow-green Vireo 1/20/2002
Chiguanco Thrush 1/19/2002
Black-billed Thrush 1/24/2002
Purple Honeycreeper 1/20/2002
Green Honeycreeper 1/20/2002
Blue Dacnis 1/23/2002
Yellow-bellied Dacnis 1/23/2002
Orange-bellied Euphonia 1/23/2002
Rufous-bellied Euphonia 1/20/2002
White-lored Euphonia 1/23/2002
Swallow Tanager 1/22/2002
Opal-crowned Tanager 1/20/2002
Paradise Tanager 1/23/2002
Green-and-Gold Tanager 1/23/2002
Yellow-bellied Tanager 1/23/2002
Turquoise Tanager 1/20/2002
Blue-gray Tanager 1/19/2002
Palm Tanager 1/20/2002
Silver-beaked Tanager 1/23/2002
Summer Tanager 1/20/2002
Flame-crested Tanager 1/23/2002
Yellow-shouldered Grosbeak 1/23/2002
Red-capped Cardinal 1/20/2002
Blue-black Grassquit 1/24/2002
Chestnut-bellied Seedeater 1/24/2002
Large-billed Seed-Finch 1/25/2002
Yellow-rumped Cacique 1/19/2002
Solitary Cacique 1/22/2002
Crested Oropendola 1/20/2002
Russet-backed Oropendola 1/22/2002
Olive Oropendola 1/21/2002
Oriole Blackbird 1/24/2002
Moriche Oriole 1/22/2002
Shiny Cowbird 1/21/2002